Blackberries
Life • 

Unraveling

By Renae Hilary

I’ve had the urge to bake for about a week now. It came on suddenly and never left. If anything explains my mood these days, it’s that. And if you don’t know me, reader, let’s start with this: I don’t bake. Cooking leaves room for opinions and experiments. You can start with a basic concept and riff on it endlessly, pull out a hundred more ideas. It allows for improv where baking demands structure. Rule-following is usually the last thing I’m in the mood for. Yet.

I may not be alone in craving some structure these days. These past few weeks have felt like an unraveling of the sure things, the things I’ve chased after (my career, our life here in New York), the things I didn’t know I relied on (the nine-block walk to get bagels every Sunday morning, the screeching cadence of old subway wheels on even older tracks: the sound of going somewhere). I was caught up in the business of building, of adding and wanting more. Now it feels as if the world is telling me (and so many others, I realize) that it was too much.

I’m guilty of defining myself by what I can get done in a day (week, year, decade). I work hard, write, read, dance—all verbs. It’s not what you’re supposed to say, but I admit that I’m disoriented without the schedule, the to-do list. I was getting used to the blurred boundaries that motherhood invites, between my physical self and the baby, between old priorities and new, between mornings and nights when sleep is scarce. We were finding our groove. Now we’re adjusting again.

I’m trying to put one foot in front of the other, until I reach the end of my very small, railroad-style apartment. Then I have to turn around and walk the other way. That’s my attempt at quarantine humor. (Yes, it’s come to this. I’m truly sorry.) The truth is, I wish I could find more lightness in all of this. I appreciate the productivity pushers, the ones calling us to color code our sock drawers and learn German. But, without our nanny (who is home safe in her own quarantine), I’m navigating my days hour by hour: caring for the baby, working when I can, trying to set aside time to cook and do things that promote sanity.

If you’re learning German right now, reader, I applaud you. But I will also not blame you if, like me, you find yourself having to toss out expectations. I’m trying to forgive myself when I find my weekdays blurring into weekends and mornings turning into late afternoons before I’ve accomplished anything at all, the yellow spring sun getting low in the sky before I can remember watching it rise. Likewise, I applaud you if you’re eating a super clean, immunity-boosting diet. What feels right and nourishing for me right now is the double batch of chili and buttermilk cornbread we made last night. Big, comforting meals that simmer over a hot stove all day.

It also feels nourishing, for once, to bake, to follow a set of rules closely and reverently so that the end result is just the way the recipe promised. My head is still spinning (as I’m sure yours is). But, for now, I have recipes for Alison Roman’s blackberry cornmeal cake and Marion Cunningham’s buttermilk scones waiting for me. And that will have to be enough.

1 comment ADD A COMMENT

It feels like the transitions just keep coming, don’t they? I’ve been feeling like "When x is finished, everything will be in place, and then I can breathe easy." First it was grad school. Then it was our big stupid home repair. Then it was getting pregnant. Now, here we are, and there’s nothing to hold on to.

My biggest preoccupation right now is eating enough. It’s been such a reflection on our lifestyle to be stuck at home—I’m losing weight when I need to be gaining, mostly because for the first time since leaving home I’m forced to make myself ALL my food. And all I want is pasta. I’m feeling the effects of lack of veggies. My vegetable box is coming today (fingers crossed) and I’ve never been more excited to receive spinach and kale and oranges and onions.

All I want is Din Tai Fung and to go to the movies.

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